
In Japan you are only to call someone by their first name if invited to do so. Otherwise they are forever known to you by their family name with the respectful form of san or, if they're a teacher, sensei attached to the end. I see Mayu Tao and her husband every morning at the local convenience store. From the beginning they have felt to me like the older aunt and uncle who quietly look after you. For this reason I address them as Mr. and Mrs. Tao, an Americanized endearment they don't seem to mind.

The Taos are successful entrepreneurs and one of the village's oldest families. Mr. Tao's grandfather started the first local store here in 1919. He and his family, bravely migrated from the southern island of Shikoku to the vastly undeveloped wilderness of Hokkaido. The store they started, the first in Nishiokoppe, stands in a different location now but is still in business. Nine years ago, the Tao's decided to manage a Seicomart, part of a large franchise chain of convenience stores that dot Hokkaido roadways every 10 miles or so. The Taos also own a home heating fuel station, a car wash and a gas station.

The Toa's love to travel. They proudly list the places they've been; Germany, Thailand, Hong Kong, Singapore, Switzerland. Mr. Toa speaks fondly of his time in Juneau chaperoning Nishiokoppe middle schoolers . He said his favorite thing about being in Juneau was "it's heart". Mrs. Tao's most favorite were her two trips to Hawaii.

I look at the clock and can't believe an hour has gone by, my tea untouched. I've been captivated by their stories. This is the most anyone has shared with me about themselves in one sitting since we've been here. The Taos have been extraordinarily friendly and helpful to us and many of the visiting Juneau families. Every morning as I groggily shuffle into Seicomart for milk and eggs, I am grateful for Mrs. Tao's smiling face and kind words.
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